congregate from great distances. This happens the night of that day when thousands of Hindus honor Subramaniam, the spotless and valiant one.

The sickly smell of incense and smoke from burning coconut shells hangs heavily in the air as priests incant, then at a propitious moment they transfix the jaws of penitents with silver needles, skewer the tongues of others and hook pins shaped like fish hooks into the backs of a few. A fire eater swallows a flaming coconut shell. Those with very little money buy balloons, chewing gum and Coca Cola. If a devotee must empty his bowels or bladder he does it where he stands. At noon Subramaniam's image, a massive green peacock, is taken from his usual throne in the city and carried on an iron-wheeled chariot drawn by garlanded bulls to the cave. Here a large group of young men, known as Deonads, carry him inside and stand guard behind him as worshipers make obeisance and profess their faith. After night invades the cave only the Deonads remain. In the deep blackness they strip off their dhotis and lay them before Subramaniam. The rest is unknown. There are no women in a Deonad's life. They would defile the purity of his body.

Take the Dutch cargo ship "Tjiluwah" south to Java and you'll see bamboo fences surrounding huts of plaited bamboo, where women known as Inoas live in pairs. High above each hut on a bamboo pole sits a cage containing a dove. Should an Inoa die her friend releases the dove to keep the soul of her beloved company until hers joins it. When two Inoas discover they are suited to each other they braid their long black hair into one braid then hand in hand they walk among the huts until they come to their own. Over their doorway they find their neighbors have draped a garland of Flame of the Forest blos-

one

soms, and they're presented with a male and female goat, then all sit in a circle, chew tobacco and spit into a coconut shell which stands in the cen-

ter.

At one time several traveled to Borneo to work as rubber tree tappers. The sexually insatiable Bornese men, excited by their grace and sultry beauty, raped them. No Inoa became pregnant, she preferred death. Each year in remembrance of the tragedy groups of Inoas gather in the forests. They sing heart-breaking lamentations and enact the drama of the girl being attacked. Her friend stabs at the man with her tree knife but he kills her and the other dies of grief. United in death they stand with a rope of fragrant white tiare blossoms stretched between them, each holding an end against her hip; slowly they turn, wrapping themselves in the rope until they are face to face.

The last port before the ship docks at Bueleleng, Bali is Surabia; and it was here that Mrs. Claussen, a youngish Dutch woman came abroad with a pack of yelping dogs which, fortunately, were consigned to the hold. She explained that she was taking them to the island of Macassar where she and her husband, a Shell Oil company official lived in a settlement with other oil employees. Once every two or three months one of them went shopping for dogs; one a month being a servant's pay instead of rupiahs. Their servants, she said, were young men who dressed. as women and wore their long black hair coiled atop their heads with cheap costume jewelry stuck in it. The first residents had native women, then suddently and mysteriously they disappeared, then it became impossible to get others. After many servantless weeks the feminized youths, to every one's amazement, became available and demanded they be paid with dogs. Inadvertently this proved a blessing.

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